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Anti-LGBT hate crimes are rising, the FBI says. But it gets worse – USA TODAY

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Friday marked 50 years since protesters fought back against a police raid of New York’s Stonewall Inn and catalyzed the modern gay rights movement. But despite decades of progress, members of the LGBTQ community across the country are experiencing targeted acts of violence.

Hate crimes against LGBTQ people have been on a slight rise over the past three years, according to FBI data. While most hate crimes in the U.S. are motivated by bias toward race and religion, the number of crimes based on sexual orientation rose each year from 2014 to 2017, when 1,130 incidents were reported. Of those crimes, a majority targeted gay men.

Crimes motivated by a bias toward gender identity – against transgender and non-binary individuals – have generally risen since 2013, when the FBI first began recording them. At least 11 transgender people have been fatally shot or killed by other violent means in 2019, according to the Human Rights Campaign. Recent media reports suggest that crimes against black transgender women, in particular, have spiked this year.

The FBI data, however, likely dramatically underestimates the true number of hate crimes against the LGBTQ community, experts, say, given flaws in the current data collection process and massive discrepancies with the much larger number of self-reported incidents.

A better gauge of hate crime trends in the U.S. may be the National Crime Victimization Survey (NCVS), a household-based survey administered by the U.S. Census Bureau. This self-reported data suggests that Americans experience closer to 200,000 hate crimes each year – a far cry from the FBI’s estimate of approximately 7,500.

The NCVS data also suggests that a greater percentage of all hate crimes are motivated by a bias against sexual orientation than the FBI data.

Many people who experience hate crimes do not report the incidents to law enforcement, for various reasons.

“To the extent that we don’t have universal protections from discrimination on the basis of employment, housing, and public accommodations, if someone comes forward to report a hate crime, they could also be officially outing themselves as LGBTQ. In a smaller or rural community, that outing could result in an eviction or loss of a job,” said Robin Maril, Human Rights Campaign Associate Legal Director.

Are the young really the most tolerant? Results of this LGBTQ survey are ‘alarming’

Some advocates point to the Trump administration’s policies and rhetoric as potential catalysts for the increasing violence in recent years.

After Trumps’ election, the Southern Poverty Law Center counted 201 incidents of election-related harassment and intimidation across the country, including incidents targeting the LGBTQ community and people of color.

In 2017, the president announced on Twitter that he would be banning transgender people from the military. At an annual National Prayer Breakfast this past February, Trump defended a state-funded Michigan adoption agency’s efforts to ban gay and lesbian couples from adopting children.

“The level of discourse that we are getting from the Trump administration and leadership only hurts our community, only hurts trans people,” Maril said. “It gives a sense of impunity and a license to harm folks.”

Under the Obama administration, the average number of anti-gay hate crime incidents reported to the FBI each year was higher than the number of incidents reported in 2017. In 2008, the FBI reported 1,297 anti-gay hate crime. That number fluctuated but eventually fell to 1,135 in 2012 and 1076 in 2016.

Flaws in available data

The Hate Crime Statistics Act of 1990 requires attorneys general to report incidents submitted from state and local law enforcement agencies to the FBI, which publishes an annual Hate Crime Statistics report. Some high-profile cases, however – such as the murder of Heather Heyer in Charlottesville – have been historically omitted from these annual reports, raising questions about the accuracy of federal hate crime data.

Hate crimes motivated by bias against sexual orientation and gender identity are illegal under the 2009 Matthew Shepard and James Byrd Jr. Hate Crimes Prevention Act. But state laws aren’t so clear cut. An estimated 53% of LGBTQ adults in the U.S. live in states that don’t have hate crime laws covering sexual orientation and gender identity, according to the Movement Advancement Project, a nonprofit think tank. 

Local and state law enforcement agencies are not required to report hate crimes. However, the number of agencies participating in hate crime data collection has risen over the last two decades, from 11,354 agencies in 1996 to 16,149 agencies in 2017.

As more agencies have begun to participate in the FBI program, the percentage of agencies reporting that any hate crime incidents took place has declined. In 2017, only 12.6% of agencies reported any hate crimes at all. All others reported zero hate crimes. But media reports and self-reported data from the NCVS say otherwise.

“There are entire cities that don’t report any hate crimes. Cities like Miami might report zero hate crimes, but a hate crime does occur in Miami at least once a year,” Maril said.

“The data is embarrassingly bad for a country that supposedly takes public safety so seriously. One would think that we would do a better job of collecting crime data. And none of our crime data is worse than our hate crime data,” said Roy L. Austin, who was Deputy Assistant Attorney General for the Justice Department’s Civil Rights Division under the Obama administration. “There’s a serious disconnect, and everyone knows this disconnect exists. But no one with the power to do anything about it seems willing to do what is necessary to get this right.” 

Triple homicide targeting LGBTQ:2 gay men, 1 transgender woman murdered

Attacks leave black trans women ‘constantly feeling on edge’

In this Friday, April 20, 2019 photo, Muhlaysia Booker speaks during a rally in Dallas. Booker, a transgender woman seen on a widely circulated video being beaten on April 12 in front of a crowd of people, was found dead Saturday, May 18 in a Dallas shooting.

This past Pride Month witnessed a slew of violent anti-LGBTQ hate crimes. For trans women of color in Texas, recent months have brought terror. Dallas resident Muhlaysia Booker, 23, was assaulted in April in an attack that went viral on social media, then fatally shot in May. Just weeks later, on the first day of Pride, Chynal Lindsey, 26, was found dead – the third black trans woman murdered in Dallas in less than a year.

Dee Dee Watters, a black trans activist and president of Black Trans Women Inc., had just left Booker’s wake when she heard about Lindsey’s death.

“We were en route back to Houston, and we got word that there was a young lady that they fished out of the lake in Dallas,” Watters said, adding, “We weren’t even able to complete the mourning of the loss of this young lady – then to get hit with another individual that was murdered.”

Naomi Green, a black trans woman and program coordinator at Abounding Prosperity Inc., an organization that supports Dallas’s black LGBTQ community, said she’s now learning to shoot a gun and is organizing self-defense classes.

“It’s very traumatizing,” Green said. “You’re constantly feeling on edge and looking over your shoulder.” 

A photo of Muhlasyia Booker, a trans woman who was murdered in Dallas in June, sits on the office desk of Naomi Green, program coordinator at Abounding Prosperity, Dallas. Booker's image is "the face of change for a community," Green said.

For some black trans women, daily experiences of bias are not unusual. Kaye Ingram, 29, moved to Dallas in 2016 but was rejected from various jobs for many months. She stayed with friends until she was finally able to secure housing through a program in Dallas – an apartment in the same neighborhood where Muhlaysia Booker was killed.

Last year, Ingram was leaving a convenience store in her neighborhood when a man hurled slurs at her, then punched her in the eye.

“I remember the trauma of actually being hit and having slurs thrown on you as people watch and … laugh,” Ingram said. “When I saw the Muhlaysia story, that just made me remember how I felt in that moment – how afraid I was. I don’t have any family here, and I was afraid to retaliate because it’s an open carry state.”

Ingram told USA TODAY that she has been targeted based on her gender identity several times in the past two years: a co-worker verbally degraded her, a man yelling from his balcony called her “an abomination,” and boys riding by on bikes threw rocks at her. She said that she has been raped three times.

A survey by the National Center for Transgender Equality found that nearly half of transgender people experience sexual assault in their lifetime. That percentage increases among transgender people of color: American Indian (65%), multiracial (59%), Middle Eastern (58%), and black (53%).

“We’re at the bottom of the totem pole – being black, then being trans, then being a woman,” Ingram said. “I’m scared. I’m trying to hurry up and leave.”

SARAH MCBRIDE:She was sexually assaulted within months of coming out. She isn’t alone

The lifetime prevalence of rape is also higher for bisexual women (46%) compared to heterosexual women (17%), according to the CDC. The lifetime prevalence of sexual violence other than rape is 46% for lesbians, 75% for bisexual women and 43% for heterosexual women. The vast majority report male perpetrators.

Hate crimes are a daily occurrence in the United States. But such crimes are for many reasons extremely difficult to verify, and grossly under-reported.

‘We need the stories about what’s happening’

Available hate crime data may be imperfect, but some believe that there is hope for the reporting process. 

“The single most important thing is to link any federal funding on crime prevention on providing accurate and regular numbers. The second thing to do is to change the way the national incident-based reporting system is done so that the national numbers are produced more frequently and in a way that is more user friendly,” Austin said.

Others advocate making hate crime reporting mandatory under federal law, instituting stronger protections against hate crimes at the federal and state level, and passing legislation that prevents discrimination across the board. But not everyone supports giving law enforcement more power over communities that have been historically mistreated by police.

‘Wrong, plain and simple’:50 years later, NYPD apologizes for Stonewall riots

“I’m not a data wonk, but I know what data means to our elected officials,” said Lou Weaver, Transgender Programs Coordinator for the advocacy group Equality Texas. “We need the data. We need the stories about what’s happening.”

The 2018 edition of the annual report Hate Crime Statistics is tentatively scheduled for release in the fall of 2019.

If you’ve experienced or witnessed anti-LGBTQ violence, or are concerned about someone who has, you can call the Anti-Violence Project hotline 24/7 at 212-714-1141. All calls are confidential.  You can also report violence anonymously or ask for a counselor to reach out to you online.

Follow Grace Hauck on Twitter @grace_hauck.

Banning pride flags at US embassies:Mike Pence says it’s ‘the right decision’

Gay Friendly? – Statista

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Gay Guide the Damron Address Book Could Be Nearing Its End – LA Magazine

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The story of Bob Damron’s The Address Book begins, like so many others, with one guy and a full tank of gas cutting down the California coast. Picture him pulling out of the Castro in San Francisco, a notebook seated next to him, sun glinting off the rims of a wood-paneled station wagon. Maybe he didn’t drive that exact car, Gina Gatta concedes, but you get the gist.

Gatta owns Damron Company, the travel business that grew from Damron’s Address Book. “Like a Bible salesman, Bob would get on the road,” says Gatta. “He would travel around, and he would find the gays, and he would find the bars and bathhouses.”

In its earliest incarnation, The Address Book was gay equivalent of The Green Book, which shepherded African American travelers across the segregated South starting in 1936, and was recently highlighted in last year’s Oscar-winning movie of the same name.

Damron’s largely forgotten pocket-sized guide shaped queer America, long before Yelp, dating apps, or LGBTQ community centers. “It developed gay communities,” Gatta says.  She credits the book with shaping Chicago’s iconic gay Halsted Street and the Castro in San Francisco.

Other LGBTQ directories sprung up during the early ’60s. The Lavender Baedeker started in 1963, but didn’t have the same longevity. David Johnson, LGBTQ historian and author of Buying Gay: How Physique Entrepreneurs Sparked a Movement, believes Damron’s survived, in part, because unlike other publishers, Damron never published gay men’s physique magazines that came onto newsstands in the early 1950s. “They were all prosecuted for obscenity and they were all essentially railroaded out of the business by the post office,” Johnson says. “Their businesses were destroyed.”

The impact of those early guides, including The Address Book, on queer America was profound, says Johnson.

“I think they helped knit the community together in a national way,” he says. “So it’s no longer just, you go to your local bar, but wherever you are, if you’re traveling to a big city from a small town, you can find the community.”

https://www.instagram.com/p/BJys6t7B5Lr/

For 45 years The Address Book, later renamed Damron Men’s Travel Guide, steered LGBTQ people from coast to cocktail lounge. It started before you could kiss on the beach on your Los Angeles vacation. In 1965, gay sex was a crime everywhere but Illinois. The Stonewall uprising, a turning point in modern gay history, was still four years away.

Damron’s pastel book told you where in Allentown, Pennsylvania, you could get a beer without getting being beat up. If you lived in Covington, Kentucky, you’d learn that Joche Bo’s was a good a weekend-only spot. In Los Angeles alone, you’d find more than a dozen bars and bathhouses.

Bob Damron personally checked in to 200 cities and 37 states during the first year of its two printings. “He would go back around to those businesses,” Gatta explains. “[He would] go to Joe’s bar and say, ‘here are your books, what’s new?’ And then you find out that there were five other bars. You go to the five of the bars, compile that, come back to San Francisco, put it back together, go back out again.”

Readers wrote and phoned in additional listings which were vetted and added to the book. Many were later removed after the book fell into the hands of police who started raiding the businesses listed. Damron’s own 1965 copy, which Gatta owns, still has blue pen marks with businesses scratched out, bars that had to be taken out after police crackdowns made them unsafe for LGBTQ travelers.

There are no mentions of gay life in the early books. Missing are images of shirtless men that floods gay literature from that time. The listings don’t even include descriptions, just addresses. The first listing in the book is in Birmingham, Alabama: “Fire Pit * 1915 5th Av N.”

Only a most discerning reader would gather that it was targeted toward gay men. A key at the start of the book offers a few more details about what one might find, but even those are sparse. “C” means a place serves coffee. An asterisk notes that a spot is particularly popular. “M” tells the readers the crowd is “mixed and/or tourists.”

Bob Damron’s Address Book never said ‘gay’ due to fear of being outed,” Gatta explains. “Our clientele appreciated the secret title.” It wasn’t until 1999 that the company printed the word “gay” on its cover.

Despite the parallels between the Address and the Green Book, Damron didn’t empathize with people of color or women, says Gatta. “I believe he was a very prejudiced man,” she says. “I don’t think he liked people of color. And I know he didn’t like dykes. He’d be rolling over in his grave right now if he knew I was running this company.”

Things changed after 1985, when Damron sold the company to Dan Delbex, who was friend’s with Gatta’s gay brothers. Gatta frequented the Damron offices in San Francisco, and by 1989, Gatta found herself employed full time at Damron.

The 1980s were a time of rapid expansion and loss for the company as the AIDS crisis decimated a generation of men and the Damron catalogue exploded in popularity. The company expanded its offerings, publishing a women’s guide, The Gayellow Pages Damron City GuideDamron Accommodations Guide, queer city reviews, and a range of international books.

In the 1990s, Damron’s phone bills totaled $2,000 a month, in part because Gatta and staff were calling listings to verify their existence as readers wrote in to add to the book. But they were also getting a flood of calls to their 800 number, people who were lonely or in trouble, people who couldn’t come out. Gatta began adding listings for LGBTQ organizations, AA chapters, and AIDS testing facilities. Bob Damron died in 1991 from complications of HIV.

Today, little remains of the gay world he chartered in 1965. None of West Hollywood’s bustling gay bars date back to Damron’s early days. Annex West, a spot that used to sit on Melrose, is now a Floyd’s Barbershop. Carnival Room on Santa Monica is now home to a gift shop. The front of the Explorer in Silver Lake has been painted over with the words “JESUS SAVES” in bright blue letters.

The Frolic Room in Hollywood is among the last remaining bars on Damron’s original list, but Robert Nunley, who has owned it for 37 years, says he has never heard it was a spot for LGBTQ people.

“I never considered it a gay bar,” he said. “It’s for everyone that wants to come. There’s gay people coming in, straight, lesbian. Everybody comes in. Everyone gets along.”

Even the Damron office is dated, a relic of the mid-1990s with an aggressive amount of furniture and computers that look like they haven’t turned on since since the days of dial-up internet. Gatta points out a typewriter in the corner. The carpet was probably three shades greener 30 years ago.

In the guide’s heyday, Damron execs toured the world, watched the books come hot off the presses in China. Today, Gatta shares the office with a psychologist part-time to help pay the rent. She’s the last the employee left, and she’s not even full-time. She consults on the side.

It’s hard to keep a print book going in the age of the internet. The Damron website doesn’t get a lot of traffic because its listings are buried behind a paywall. A younger LGBTQ generation, one that grew up with Facebook and Grindr, has likely never heard of The Address Book or the Damron Guides.

“People that grew up in urban cities did not need my book,” admits Gatta “You are already comfortable being gay. It was safe for you to be gay. You didn’t need to go find a safe place.”

Gatta pulls out the 52nd edition of the guide. “I can’t see how I can do another one,” she concedes. She still has readers in red states, mostly older men. The women’s guide stopped publishing in 2016. It was never profitable.

She chose black for the cover of this year’s guide, not because it’s funerary, although one can’t help but make the connection. “The best quote I ever got was from The New York Times,” she says. “It was called ‘The Little Black Book of Gay Travel.’  So I chose black, in case it was the last one.”


RELATED: 100-Plus LGBTQ Icons and Iconoclasts Who Are Shaping Culture in L.A. and Beyond


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10 ideal travel destinations for gays that aren’t a ‘gay holiday’ | Mapped – Daily Hive

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This article was written by Bastiaan Ellen, co-founder and CEO of Mr Hudson: Travel guides for the discerning gay man.

Not all gay travellers are in search of a ‘gay holiday.’ An emerging set of queer explorers is looking for experiences that are authentic, exceptional, and of course, stylish — always stylish. And these gay go-getters are becoming more ambitious and adventurous than ever in their travels. 

What’s driving the changing map of queer travel? A few factors are at work: Gay voyagers in the not-so-distant past were limited to a handful of safe and welcoming destinations. But now, more and more countries are beginning not just to recognize same-sex relationships, but to actively court gay tourists. 

The second piece is that gay men don’t necessarily need to hang out at gay clubs to hook up because apps like Grindr have eliminated the need for that. These dynamics are dramatically changing the way gays socialize. More and more, the gay and straight scenes merge together as gays go out with their straight friends, straights with their gay friends and every other possible combination in between. 

The cities where this is unfolding in a real way also happen to be some of the most creative, forward-thinking and fantastic places on the planet to explore. Here are ten city standouts, highlighted in my new book, Mr Hudson Explores: The Gay Man’s Travel Companion.’

Lisbon, Portugal: A city of contrasting charms 

Urban beauty Lisbon is blessed with year-round sunshine. The bright light allows for thorough full appreciation of her endless Tagus River, a string of seven pastoral hills, cobblestone streets and canary-coloured trams that putter alongside majestic squares. While Catholicism retains a tight hold on Portugal, the gay community has enjoyed a steadily increasing acceptance since homosexuality was decriminalized back in 1983. 

Tel Aviv, Israel: A mixed mecca of openness 

At the edge of the Mediterranean, in a conservative Middle Eastern region, a queer mirage rises from the desert. Arguably gayer than even San Francisco, an estimated 25% of Tel Aviv residents identify as queer. While it’s true the capital city does not have a lot of gay bars, it’s equally evident that the LGBTQ communities have effortlessly blended into the local scenes. No need to look for the gay neighbourhood when in Tel Aviv, because chances are you’re already standing in it. “Gay life is very normalized. If you want to pick up a guy or get to know someone, you can do it in any bar,” said Itay Blaish, a creative director and graphic designer from Tel Aviv. 

Shanghai, China: The far out, far east temple of indulgence 

gay travel

Shanghai. (Denys Nevo Zhai)

Shanghai is as heady as they come. It’s a city that can surprise and delight even the most world-weary traveller. As it’s been said: “If NYC is the city that never sleeps, Shanghai is the city the city that doesn’t even sit down.” The Chinese metropolis can feed your love for art and architecture, your gourmet palate, and provide retail therapy. It’s an intoxicating blend of futuristic attitudes welded onto ancient culture. And while you won’t find rainbow flags fluttering it in Shanghai, it is home to a vibrant queerness. The up-and-coming generation of LGBTQs feels more at home in underground clubs than gay bars because queerness is so entangled with youth culture and those places are the most accepting of diversity.

Stockholm, Sweden: A modish mix of minimalist mirth 

gay holiday

Stockholm. (Karine Germain)

Stockholm somehow manages to have one foot planted in medieval history and the other foot firmly in the cutting-edge present, all while leaning deeply into the future. Its unique multi-island landscape is an ancient natural wonder sprinkled with up-to-the-second design. As for the gay thing, these forward-thinking Nords decriminalized same-sex relations three generations ago, back in 1944. Stockholm doesn’t even have a need for designated gay districts; the rainbow flag flies everywhere across the city. 

Tokyo, Japan: Where traditionalism and modernism merge

Electrifyingly modern, with sweeping skyscrapers, flashing neon lights, and dizzying metro stops, in Tokyo, there is opportunity for quiet reflection and wild antics in equal measure. In a country known for its strict social mores, Japan has somewhat surprisingly emerged one of the leaders of gay rights in Asia. Tokyo is home to a thriving LGBTQ community, which locals accept with characteristic humility. Shop, roam, dine at Michelin-starred restaurants (Tokyo has more than any other city on the planet) and find your Zen in the peaceful Buddhist and Shinto shrines dotted across the city. 

Portland, USA: Leading the way to a greener future 

gay travel

Portland. (Andrew Collins)

If you’re looking for a 21st-century model city for healthy urban living, look no further than Portland. This one-time logging town lures young creatives to begin their new lives in the heart of the Pacific Northwest, much like the sparkling flecks in a river once sent a generation to California in the Gold Rush. The region’s vast wilderness, a relaxed progressive culture committed to social equality and DIY entrepreneurial spirit are just a few of the draws. (Not to mention its robust queer ballroom culture scene.)

Vienna, Austria: Where tradition and modern values meet 

Homosexuality is nothing new to the Viennese. The brother to Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I was publicly out. Sexually liberal Vienna is home to some of history’s most trailblazing homosexuals, including composers and political leaders who worked to overthrow Viennese orthodoxy from inside the system. The city’s rich cultural legacy is alive at every turn. Arts, culture, cuisine, architecture, and nightlife are only the beginning of what makes the former capital of the Habsburg Empire worth visiting. And while Paris has Le Marais, New York’s got Chelsea, and San Francisco has the Castro, Vienna doesn’t limit itself to one gay area. Here, you will feel free and accepted in every corner of the city with nary even the occasional side-eye. 

Vancouver, Canada: A Pacific urban paradise 

gay travel

Vancouver. (Matthew Sleeper)

When the morning mist hits Vancouver’s glass skyscrapers, the city shines like a kaleidoscope. Or a gay rainbow, depending on which way you look at it. With the liberal, free-thinking attitude found amongst most Vancouverites, queer visitors will feel welcome throughout the entire city. Explore the urban forests, dramatic mountains, and stunning coastlines of Vancouver. And eat. A lot. Check out Davie Village, the city’s gayborhood, home to Canada’s first permanent rainbow crosswalk 

Mexico City, Mexico: North America’s complex, ever-changing megalopolis 

gay travel

Mexico City. (Jezael Melgoza)

Mexico City, aka CDMX, is where high culture meets horn-honking squalor, and also where, beneath the dominating shadow of the Catholic Church, gay visitors will find an open-minded queer mecca. It’s gotten a bad rap for its crime and traffic, but make no mistake, this is an intoxicating city whose buzz won’t wear off until long after you’ve returned home. Mexico City is in the midst of a cultural renaissance. Amble through reinvigorated neighbourhoods and public spaces that showcase its rich, storied past. Don’t miss the home of Frida Kahlo, the Madonna of her time, who is for many, an icon in the LGBTQ+ community for her openness around female sexuality. 

Chicago, USA: The midwest’s smoking-hot, eternally cool city 

Home to the first leather bar, and located in the first state to remove sodomy from its list of forbidden acts back in 1961, Chicago has earned its solid reputation as one of the most inclusive LGBTQ+ communities in America. On top of that, the Windy City boasts cutting-edge architecture, world-class cuisine (including the definitive Deep Dish Pizza) and Lake Michigan’s scenic shores. It’s enough for Chicagoans to catch a smug attitude, but these good-natured souls wouldn’t dream of it. They are a blend of New York chic and Midwestern warmth and will greet gay visitors with open arms.

Where to Shop Hamptons LGBT Pride Fashion Collections – Dan’s Papers

With Pride in the Vines, Patchogue’s Alive After Five, Pride on the Beach and WorldPride NYC fast approaching, you might just now be realizing that you haven’t the foggiest idea what to wear to an LGBT Pride event. Take a deep breath and rest assured knowing that the many high-end fashion labels and designers found in the Hamptons have you covered. Literally. Best of all, each of these 2019 Pride collections donate a portion of proceeds to life-saving LGBT charities, so don’t fret maxing out a credit card or two for the greater good.

RELATED: LGBT Network’s David Kilmnick Talks East End Pride

Ralph Lauren
Montauk resident Ralph Lauren’s company has a long history of supporting LGBT nonprofit organizations, but Polo Ralph Lauren hasn’t had a campaign or collection dedicated to the queer community until now. Its first-ever Pride Month collection features five unisex fashion staples, each with a pop of rainbow flair. The polo shirt, tee, fleece hoodie and baseball cap are crisp white with the classic Polo emblem flaunting the colors of the Pride flag, and, cooler still, each one can be monogrammed. The collection also includes an off-white tote bag with navy straps and the words “Polo Pride” on one side and the rainbow emblem on the other. All proceeds from the sale of the tees and half of proceeds from the other four pieces will help the Stonewall Community Foundation provide substantial grants to LGBT-focused organizations and projects in New York.

Ralph Lauren’s Club Monaco has it’s own Pride Month campaign, titled Love Starts Here, which features a gray unisex hoodie with the company name written in rainbow. Half of the proceeds will be donated to the Stonewall Community Foundation.

Shop Ralph Lauren in Southampton, Polo Ralph Lauren in East Hampton, Club Monaco in both villages and all three brands online. 

Calvin Klein
Southamptonite Calvin Klein’s Pride campaign, Nothing but Pride in #MyCalvins, promises to donate a portion of proceeds to the Human Rights Campaign, America’s largest LGBT civil rights organization. The collection includes tees, mesh tank tops, bralettes, swimsuits, underwear, “Live It” charms and more.

Shop Calvin Klein online.

Michael Kors
Hamptonite Michael Kors has unveiled a massive Pride Month collection featuring a rainbow-striped sequin dress, one-piece swimsuit, short-sleeve sweater, pleated skirt, hoodie dress, gold-tone watch, slip-on sneaker, clear tote bag and more. New products also include a crossbody bag, backpack, wallet, leather pump and high-top sneaker, each with an eye-catching arrangement of colorful stars. The basic white tee with the company logo in rainbow stripes is the unexpected highlight of collection, with 100% of its proceeds helping God’s Love We Deliver provide food for malnourished people living with HIV/AIDS, cancer and other illnesses.

Shop Michael Kors in Southampton and online.

DKNY
East Hamptonite Donna Karan’s 2019 Pride collection, created in partnership with and benefitting Hetrick-Martin Institute, has been receiving major buzz thanks to Brendon Urie of Panic! At the Disco, who wore the DKNY 100% Pride Tee during his Wango Tango performance with Taylor Swift. The shirt, available in white and black, says, “100% Love, 100% Equality, 100% Loud, 100% Proud, 100% Together, 100% Me,” each written in one of the six rainbow colors. The collection also includes sunglasses, bags, watches and a sneaker dress with rainbows throughout.

Shop DKNY online.

J.Crew
J.Crew’s timeless collection includes white and heather gray tees for women and kids that read “Love First.” in a beautiful rainbow font. The more understated men’s variant is heather gray with faded black lettering ending in a rainbow period. Half of the proceeds benefit the Human Rights Campaign.

Shop J.Crew in Southampton and online.

Gap
Gap’s Love All Ways campaign shines a light on Jodie Patterson, a mother of five who has become an advocate for her transgender son and others like him. The company’s Pride collection includes adult tees with the words “Free To Be Always,” kids’ tees that read “Be Kind,” “My Dads Rock” and “My Moms Rock,” and baby bodysuits that spell out “I ♥ My Dads” and “I ♥ My Moms.” Hats, tote bags and socks are also available, and 15% of all Pride collection sales will be donated to the United Nations Free & Equal campaign to work toward global equal rights for LGBT and intersex people.

Shop Gap in Bridgehampton and online.

A short history of queer fashion – Livemint

Fashion with a queer aesthetic is still an emerging concept in India. It wasn’t until the early 2000s that LGBTQ+ influences were seen on the runway and in the work of homegrown designers. Manish Arora’s psychedelic aesthetic has consistently carried queer undertones, with splashes of neon colours and whimsical patterns, since he founded his eponymous brand in 1997. Rohit Bal’s 2003 Lakmé Fashion Week Show had male models in skirts sporting sindoor (vermillion) and nose rings—an indication of men being in touch with their feminine side.

More recently, there has been an exponential growth in non-binary clothing, with labels such as Kallol Datta, Anaam, Bobo Calcutta, Two Point Two Studio, Potplant, Huemn and Akshat Bansal’s Bloni specializing in fluid forms, colours (or a lack thereof) and designs that blur gender boundaries. After the Supreme Court decriminalized Section 377, the FDCI’s Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week (LMIFW) paid tribute to the queer community during the finale of its Spring/Summer 2019 edition. Over 40 designers created outfits inspired by the pride flag.

Wearing their pride on their sleeve

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1700s

Homosexuality was illegal in Europe, which led to the emergence of small and secret homosexual subcultures. Its members, known as mollies, would cross-dress in private to self-identify and attract partners. In public, though, there were secret dress codes that allowed gay men and lesbians to identify each other.

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1890s

One of the century’s most influential writers, Oscar Wilde’s flamboyant sense of style was as much of an influence as his seminal works. His flowing hair, floral accessories, loosely tied collars, breeches and fur-trimmed overcoats spoke of his self-expression of dandyism, evolving with his personal and public image.

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1920s

Women adopted menswear in rebellion against patriarchy. Movie stars like Marlene Dietrich played a major role in popularizing androgynous dressing styles. The Harlem “Drag” Balls also offered a space where people could privately wear clothing of the opposite gender.

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1930s

As closeted gay couturiers such as Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain and Cristóbal Balenciaga rose in the fashion industry, they experimented with both idealized and transgressive styles. For example, Dior’s 1947 “New Look” was an exaggerated presentation of the idealized female form.

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1950s

Women increasingly began to wear trousers, traditionally worn by men. Until the 1970s, the trouser also served as an identifier for lesbians, though not everyone adopted it. Some women preferred feminine clothing, playing a role in the emergence of the “butch” and “femme” identities.

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1960s

Queer subcultures became more visible, especially in London’s Carnaby Street. Mod and hippie styles gained fame and men became more interested in fashion. Androgyny became part of the counterculture’s style language.

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1970s

The Stonewall Riots of 1969 paved the way for a change in gay men’s fashion sensibilities. While the riots were started by transgender “street queens” such as Marsha P. Johnson, who opted for feminine styles, men opted for hypermasculine styles. Feminist politics also saw women moving towards “anti-fashion”.

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1980s

The AIDS crisis changed the way gay men consumed fashion, swapping hypermasculinity for subversive styles. Lesbians gradually shed their “butch” and “femme” binaries for new ways of dressing, influenced by different cultures.

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1990s

Queer fashion extended its influence on the runway, especially when it came to subjects perceived as social taboos. French designer Jean Paul Gaultier, who had created his campy cone-bustier dress in 1984, went on to make skirts for men. Gianni Versace explored BDSM in his 1992 collection, Miss S&M

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2000 onwards

The new millennium looks beyond gender binaries. Principles of diversity and inclusivity have redefined LGBTQ+ style while also changing the contours of mainstream fashion. The idea of genderless clothing has prospered, starting with designers like Rick Owens, who has implemented it in his brand since 2002.

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Bisexual adults are far less likely than gay men and lesbians to be ‘out’ to the people in their lives – Pew Research Center

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Marchers carry a bisexual pride flag in the 2013 LA Pride Parade in West Hollywood, California. (David McNew/Getty Images)

As the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (LGBT) community celebrates Pride Month in June, bisexual Americans are becoming more and more visible. Bisexuals, who account for about four-in-ten LGBT adults in the United States, stand apart from gay and lesbian adults in many ways, such as the fact that they are less likely to view their sexual orientation as central to their identity.

Bisexuals are far less likely to be 'out' to the important people in their lifeBisexual adults are much less likely than gays and lesbians to be “out” to the important people in their lives, according to a new Pew Research Center analysis of recently released survey data from Stanford University.

Only 19% of those who identify as bisexual say all or most of the important people in their lives are aware of their sexual orientation. In contrast, 75% of gay and lesbian adults say the same. About one-quarter of bisexual adults (26%) are not “out” to any of the important people in their lives, compared with 4% of gay and lesbian adults. Roughly half of those who are bisexual (54%) are out to some or only a few people.

The experience of coming out to friends and family can be complex. Many bisexuals say they haven’t come out to their parents because they didn’t feel it was important to tell them or the subject never came up, according to the Center’s 2013 survey of LGBT adults. Among those who did come out, bisexual adults report somewhat different experiences from gays and lesbians.

Roughly four-in-ten adults who describe themselves as bisexual (43%) say they are sexually attracted to men and women equally. A similar share (40%) say they are attracted mostly to the opposite gender and 4% report feeling attracted only to the opposite gender, while 12% and 1%, respectively, say they are attracted mostly or only to their own gender.

About four-in-ten bisexual adults say they are attracted to men and women equallyAmong people who identify as straight or heterosexual, the vast majority (96%) say they are attracted only to the opposite gender, and a small share (3%, mostly made up of women) say they are mostly attracted to the opposite gender. Gays and lesbians are somewhat less likely to report being solely attracted to one gender. Still, most (81%) are attracted solely to the same gender while 14% are attracted mostly to the same gender.

About nine-in-ten partnered bisexuals are in opposite-sex relationshipsAmong people with partners, many more bisexual adults are married or in a relationship with someone of the opposite sex than are with someone of the same sex – 88% say this. This is likely due at least in part to the fact that LGB adults make up a small share of the overall adult population, so the pool of potential same-sex partners is much smaller than the pool of opposite-sex partners. Meanwhile, all the respondents in the survey who identified as straight were in opposite-sex relationships, and nearly all (94%) of those who identified as gay or lesbian were in same-sex relationships.

The 2013 survey also found that LGBT adults said that bisexual men faced less social acceptance than bisexual women, gay men and lesbians. Just 8% of LGBT adults felt there was a lot of social acceptance of bisexual men, while 46% said there was only a little or no social acceptance for this group. Among bisexuals, 40% reported in 2013 that they had ever been subject to slurs or jokes and 31% said they had been rejected by a friend or family member because they were bisexual.

Note: The sample size of bisexual adults is too small to analyze men and women or other demographic subgroups separately. People who did not identify as either a man or a woman or who identified as transgender could not be analyzed separately. The questions asked only about attraction to and relationships with people of the same or opposite gender, even though some may be attracted to or in relationships with people who don’t identify as a man or a woman.

Anna Brown  is a research associate focusing on social and demographic trends research at Pew Research Center.

Iconic LGBTQ Moments From Some Of Fashion’s Biggest Runways – HuffPost

It’s no secret that the LGBTQ community has helped shape the fashion industry and its ever-evolving trends. In fact, many iconic fashion moments wouldn’t exist without the community’s creativity and impact.

The fashion industry is indebted to the LGBTQ community, the contributions of which haven’t gone completely unnoticed in years past. We agree there can always be more recognition, but many of the fashion world’s designers are known to show support for the oft-targeted and marginalized group.

Below ― in no particular order ― check out nine standout moments in which the fashion world paid homage to the members of the LGBTQ community in recent years.

1. Opening Ceremony’s Spring/Summer 2019 Show

Sasha Velour performs at the Opening Ceremony spring/summer 2019 show at New York Fashion Week on Sept. 9, 2018. 

Sasha Velour performs at the Opening Ceremony spring/summer 2019 show at New York Fashion Week on Sept. 9, 2018. 

Opening Ceremony’s spring/summer 2019 show was a “drag extravaganza” created by “RuPaul’s Drag Race” winner Sasha Velour and OC creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.

According to Elle UK, Velour hand-picked more than 40 LGBTQ models to be in the show, which was meant to “celebrate the art of drag.” Others in the show included fellow drag queens Lypsinka, Miss Fame and “Drag Race” alum Jiggly Caliente.

“Drag performers have been seen as a low form of entertainment for a while and to be in this space where we’re being treated like valuable performers is world-changing,” Velour said after the show, per Elle UK. “I hope that will multiply for everyone ― not just for me and this cast, but all of the incredible drag performers out there.”

2. Chanel’s Spring 2013 Couture Show

Models Ashleigh Good and Kati Nescher close the spring 2013 Chanel couture show in Paris. 

Models Ashleigh Good and Kati Nescher close the spring 2013 Chanel couture show in Paris. 

The couture bride ― typically the model who wears the final look during a couture show ― has become a mainstay of couture fashion week over the years. And for his spring 2013 show, the late fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld sent two down the runway.

Models Ashleigh Good and Kati Nescher closed the show, walking hand in hand down the catwalk. The deliberate casting of two female models was an apparent show of support for France’s move toward marriage equality, according to CR Fashion Book. The same year this Chanel show was presented, France passed a bill that made it illegal to refuse marriage to same-sex couples.

3. Monisha Jaising’s Summer 2017 Show

Transgender model Anjali Lama, who was born in Nepal, became the first trans model to walk the runway at Lakme Fashion Week (considered India’s version of fashion week). The model appeared in the show wearing a gold embellished gown with a plunging neckline.

In an Instagram post featuring a photo from the show, Lama called the experience “amazing.”

“I do hope to be an inspiration for other transgender people,” Lama told Agence France-Presse, per The Express Tribune. “I’d like to tell them to always believe in themselves and to work towards their goals.”

4. Ashish’s Fall/Winter 2017 Show

Models walk the runway at the Ashish fall/winter 2017 show. 

Models walk the runway at the Ashish fall/winter 2017 show. 

Fashion designer Ashish Gupta stayed true to form for his fall/winter 2017 show, sending models down the runway in sequin outfit after sequin outfit. And while sparkles are almost always eye-catching, it was the graphics that really caught our eyes.

The collection featured a number of garments printed with statements like “Love sees no colour” and “Why be blue when you can be gay!” establishing the show as a “middle finger to the establishment,” as fashion publication 1 Granary put it. The outlet also notes Gupta’s collection had an overarching message of acceptance and tolerance.

5. Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2018 Show

Cara Delevingne walks the runway at Burberry wearing a rainbow faux fur cape. 

Cara Delevingne walks the runway at Burberry wearing a rainbow faux fur cape. 

Christopher Bailey, the former creative director of Burberry, dedicated his final collection for the luxury label “to the best and brightest organizations supporting LGBTQ youth around the world,” he said in a statement on Instagram.

“There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity,” Bailey added.

Models walked down a colorfully lit runway in a variety of looks, which combined Burberry’s signature tartan with references to the rainbow-colored pride flag. The most show-stopping look from the collection was a rainbow striped faux fur cape, worn by model Cara Delevingne, who has been open about gender and sexual fluidity.

6. No Sesso’s Fall/Winter 2019 Show

A model walks the runway at No Sesso fall/winter 2019 ready-to-wear show during New York Fashion Week on Feb 24, 2019.

A model walks the runway at No Sesso fall/winter 2019 ready-to-wear show during New York Fashion Week on Feb 24, 2019.

In February 2019, Pierre Davis made history as the first transgender fashion designer to show a collection at New York Fashion Week.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America made the announcement about the show back in January. Davis, whose brand is agender according to Elle, told the CFDA (per Elle UK ) that she hoped No Sesso “will inspire people to be more community-minded and to realize not everything is just about aesthetics or commerce. It’s also about humanity.”

“The playing field isn’t level in the world, and it is even more difficult in fashion,” Davis said.

7. Anja Gockel’s Spring/Summer 2017 Show

A model wears a rainbow flag dress as he walks the runway at the Anja Gockel show during the spring.summer 2017 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin on June 29, 2016.

A model wears a rainbow flag dress as he walks the runway at the Anja Gockel show during the spring.summer 2017 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin on June 29, 2016.

Anja Gockel, a Berlin-based designer, took inspiration from colorful flags for her spring/summer 2017 runway show. Among those flags was the multicolored pride flag, which in one case, was fashioned into a full-length halter dress and worn by a male model.

8. Marco Marco’s Collection Seven Presentation

Designer Marco Morante of Marco Marco sent a cast of all transgender models down the runway for his fashion show in September 2018 in New York. The show made history thanks to the fact that it featured the most trans men ever assembled on a New York Fashion Week runway, according to Mic. (Trans designer Gogo Graham featured a cast of all trans models in 2015.)

Morante, who said trans and nonbinary individuals have always been part of his shows, said that he “wanted to create a space to celebrate trans bodies,” per Mic.

The outlet also noted that Morante added, “This was an opportunity for their presence to be undeniable and reinforce that trans is beautiful.”

Among those who walked in the show were trans stars like Laverne Cox, Gigi Gorgeous (pictured above), Trace Lysette, Dominique Jackson and Angelica Ross.

9. “Project Runway’s” Season 17 Catwalk

Model Mimi Tao, the first transgender model to be featured on "Project Runway." 

Model Mimi Tao, the first transgender model to be featured on “Project Runway.” 

Model Mimi Tao became the first transgender model to grace the “Project Runway” catwalk during the show’s 17th season. She made her debut on the season premiere, when she was paired with designer Kovid Kapoor (his design is pictured above).

“I have been working so hard to get here, especially for the transgender people,” she said to Kapoor, per the website Pride. “They need to work harder than other people … I want to inspire all the transgender young generation who have a dream.”

7 Incredibly Cool LGBTQ-Friendly Destinations Around the World – Thrillist

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What exactly is “gay travel?”

Incidentally, it looks a lot like “straight” travel, in that no matter where we land on the infinite spectrum of the rainbow — gay, lesbian, trans, non-binary, queer, and everything inbetween — we all just want to create incredible memories, eat like a local, and see awe-inspiring sites. The world is a big place, and we want to find our place in it, too.

Of course, travel is political — some countries and locales can be unwelcoming to our LGBTQ+ brethren, and as such, there’s an added layer of planning. Whether traveling with your gaggle or your partner, worrying about a country’s reception of your identity can cast a pall before you even get there. Are there safe neighborhoods? Will a house rental host kick you out once they find out you’re LGBTQ+? Does the government offer protections for queer people? Where does a gay person find a decent party in this town, anyway?

If you’re wondering how best to spend your rainbow dollars, we’ve gathered together a list of our favorite destinations where the locals are just as quick to ignore your LGBTQ+ status as they are to welcome you. These places not only show their pride, they embrace it, with sympathetic laws protecting LBGTQ+ people, raucous gayborhoods, and warm locals, gay or straight.

Lesbian, gay and bisexual Americans are more critical of churches than straight adults are – Pew Research Center

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(Philip Schwadel)

Lesbian, gay and bisexual Americans tend to be more skeptical of churches and other religious institutions than straight adults, according to a new analysis of a 2014 Pew Research Center survey of more than 35,000 U.S. adults.

These views may not be a surprise: In a separate survey conducted by the Center in 2013, many LBGT Americans told us that they feel major religions are unfriendly toward LGBT people.

Most LGB Americans say religious institutions focus too much on rules, are too involved with politicsIn the 2014 survey, about seven-in-ten lesbian, gay and bisexual adults said churches and other religious organizations focus too much on rules, compared with half of straight adults who said this. LGB adults were also much more likely than straight adults to say churches are too involved in politics (66% vs. 47%) and are too concerned with money and power (64% vs. 51%). Conversely, lesbian, gay and bisexual Americans were less likely than straight Americans to say churches protect and strengthen morality. (The survey asked respondents whether they identify as lesbian, gay, bisexual or straight, but did not ask about other types of identity related to gender and sexuality.)

On some questions about the role of religious organizations in society, gays and lesbians differ from bisexuals. For example, gay and lesbian adults were more likely than bisexuals to say churches are too concerned with money and power (68% of gays and lesbians said this, vs. 61% of bisexuals) and are too involved in politics (71% vs. 62%).

Despite LGB adults’ overall high levels of concern about churches’ involvement in politics and emphasis on rules, they are more in step with straight adults when it comes to one perceived positive attribute of religious institutions: More than eight-in-ten in each group said churches bring people together and strengthen community bonds. Additionally, bisexuals (84%) were almost as likely as straight adults (87%) to say churches play an important role in helping the poor and needy, while three-quarters of gay and lesbian Americans (77%) shared this view.

Although LGB and straight Americans generally agree about some positive attributes of churches, straight adults appear to be more involved in volunteer efforts for religious organizations.

LGB Americans slightly less likely than straight adults to volunteer through religious groupsLGB adults were about as likely as straight adults to say they volunteer in general – roughly three-in-ten in each group reported doing so in the week before the survey was conducted. But LGB Americans were slightly less likely to say they volunteered through a religious organization (6% of LGB adults said this, compared with 10% of straight adults). This aligns with the Center’s findings that LGB Americans are less likely to be affiliated with a religious group and less religious by traditional measures.

Philip Schwadel  is a former senior researcher focusing on religion at Pew Research Center.

These 22 Fashion Icons Prove That Style Goes Beyond Gender – POPSUGAR

Fashion has been divided by gender for centuries; you can see it everywhere from Fashion Week to department stores. While there are people in the past who have defied fashion gender norms (hello Frida Kahlo, Marlene Dietrich, and Prince), it is clear that the fashion gender line has become more and more blurred over the past few years. LGBTQ+ visibility has had a major role in fashion’s shift towards gender inclusivity. With gender fluidity and varying expressions of gender becoming more widely known and accepted, people are pushing the boundaries of fashion and realizing that clothing has no inherent gender. Read on to see some people who are breaking the fashion mold and redefining gender through style.

These Brands Are Offering Up Pride Fashion With A Capital P – Refinery29

Calvin Klein


In addition to its #ProudInMyCalvins campaign starring Ama Elsesser, Tommy Dorfman, Jari Jones, Gia Woods, and more, Calvin Klein is also making a donation to onePULSE Foundation, a nonprofit set up by the owner of Orlando’s Pulse Nightclub where the 2016 mass shooting took place; the donation will go toward funding a scholarship in honor of Frank Hernandez, a Calvin Klein store manager who was tragically killed there. Calvin Klein’s parent company, PVH, created a $1 million grant for the organization, as well. Additionally, the brand is donating to The Equality Project, an Australian charity that offers support for members of the LGBTQ+ community and their families.

Lesbian, gay and bisexual Americans are less religious than straight adults by traditional measures – Pew Research Center

An Episcopal church in Boston. (Paul Marotta/Getty Images)
An Episcopal church in Boston. Bisexual and lesbian or gay adults are less likely than straight adults to say they attend religious services weekly, a 2014 survey found. (Paul Marotta/Getty Images)

Lesbian, gay and bisexual Americans are by some measures less religious than heterosexual or straight adults, according to a new analysis of data from Pew Research Center’s 2014 Religious Landscape Study.

For starters, gay, lesbian and bisexual adults are substantially less likely than straight adults to affiliate with a religious group. Four-in-ten (41%) identify as atheist, agnostic or “nothing in particular,” compared with just 22% of straight adults who say the same. (The survey asked respondents whether they identify as lesbian, gay, bisexual or straight but did not ask about other identities related to gender and sexuality.)

LGB adults less likely than straight Americans to say they believe in God, attend religious services weeklyA similar dynamic is at work when it comes to religious service attendance, which is one of the most standard measures of religious participation. About two-in-ten bisexuals (19%) and 16% of lesbian and gay Americans say they attend religious services weekly. By comparison, 36% of straight adults attend a house of worship regularly.

LGB Americans – who make up 5% of respondents in the survey – also are much less likely to say that scripture is the word of God, with 38% of bisexuals and 33% of gays and lesbians saying this. By comparison, 61% of straight Americans see the Bible or other holy scripture as God’s word. Likewise, while about a third of gays, lesbians and bisexuals (34%) say that religion is very important in their lives, more than half of straight Americans say this (54%).

The religious gap between LGB and straight adults narrows somewhat on the question of belief in God or a higher power. About three-quarters of LGB adults (77%) say they believe in God, lower than the share of straight Americans who say this (89%).

LGB adults may be less religious than straight Americans by some measures, but the gaps between these groups generally narrow when it comes to questions about spirituality.

LGB adults about as likely as straight Americans to meditate, think about the meaning of lifeFor example, LGB adults are as likely as straight adults to say they think about the meaning and purpose of life at least weekly. LGB Americans also are as likely as straight Americans to meditate at least once a week, with roughly four-in-ten in each group saying they do this.

LGB Americans are more likely than straight adults to say they regularly feel a deep sense of wonder about the universe. Roughly half of gay and lesbian adults (51%) and bisexuals (53%) say this, compared with 45% of straight Americans.

At the same time, LGB adults are less likely than straight adults to say they feel a deep sense of spiritual peace and well-being at least once a week, and are somewhat less likely to say they regularly feel a strong sense of gratitude or thankfulness.

Philip Schwadel  is a former senior researcher focusing on religion at Pew Research Center.

Taiwan gym owner draws fire after anti-LGBT Facebook post – Taiwan News

TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — A day after Taiwan legalized same-sex marriage, the expat owner of a popular fitness gym in Taipei posted a controversial image and incendiary text that quickly outraged many Taiwanese and foreigners alike.

On Saturday (May 18), the owner of a popular fitness gym in Taipei’s Datong District uploaded the contentious post on Facebook, quickly sparking an uproar online. In an apparent response to the tsunami of criticism that ensued, the fitness club owner took the gym’s entire Facebook page offline within 10 minutes.

In the post, apparently alluding to the recent passage of the same-sex marriage law, he writes, “we support traditional marriage, traditional families, and children.” In a jab directed at transgender individuals, he writes, “There are also only two genders and there will never be any more than that.”

The fitness center owner then boasts that his gym is “free from the gay sex that you find at many gyms in Taiwan.” In a message directed to parents, he then closes by saying, “Your kids are 100% safe inside these walls and they always will be.”

The cryptic photo included in the post is a rainbow banner with the alt-right symbol “Honkler” emblazoned in the center. Beneath the flag is a cartoon family reminiscent of the 1950s with the daughter wearing a shirt labeled “Lil cis ter,” the father labeled “Not gay,” the mother wearing a top reading “Don’t hate the str8s,” and the son sporting a shirt saying “I am a boy.”

A screenshot was uploaded onto the social media platform Reddit on Tuesday (May 21) prompting much debate. The gym’s Yelp listing soon dropped down to zero stars and the only post visible now states, “The owner of this gym is openly, and proudly, hostile to LGBT people. He says allowing LGBT people to use his gym would be a danger to children.”

Similarly, the gym’s Google listing has suddenly seen a surge of one-star ratings and many negative comments such as: “Please do not support an owner who stereotypes and makes assumptions about a whole group of people.”

Taiwan gym owner draws fire after anti-LGBT Facebook post
Screenshot of gym owner’s Facebook post.

On Wednesday (May 22), the fitness center owner issued a public statement on the derelict expat message board Forumosa in which he was unapologetic and expanded on his rationale for his original post. In the statement, he claimed that the fitness industry is aimed at homosexuals and claimed that “Taiwanese think gyms are nothing more than gay bars.”

He claimed that a Google search in Chinese for homosexuality and the name of the most popular gym would yield nearly “1 million hits in Taiwan alone.” He then claimed to have knowledge of sex taking place in the men’s rooms of “mainstream gyms.”

The owner said he was “speaking up” for “a ton of hetero people both male and female are being harassed, flashed, etc…” He reiterated from his previous post that this is a “family business” and his children frequent the gym.

Instead of mentioning an instance in which this occurred in his gym, he described an incident in which he was pushing his toddler in a stroller on the streets of Taipei when they came upon a gay pride parade. He said that what he saw that day “sickened me.”

He claimed that there are gyms “where flashing people, harassing them, and people having sex in bathrooms stalls” is allowed because “calling this stuff out is politically incorrect.” The fitness center owner then closed by claiming that his facility and its members would “100% be protected from that kind of nonsense.”

During the 2016 U.S. presidential election, Pepe the Frog was co-opted by white nationalists and the alt-right movement, and has since been removed from certain websites and been disowned by its creator Matt Furie as it has become a symbol of hate. The clown version of Pepe the Frog is known as “Honkler” (Honk + Hitler) and has become the symbol of “clown world” which is the far right’s characterization of what they believe to be the collapse of the world order due to liberalism, feminism, immigrants, and LGBT community, among other targeted groups.

The owner of the gym declined a request by Taiwan News to make a comment on his controversial Facebook post.

These Brands Are Tackling Both Sustainability and Queerness Through Clothes – Fashionista

Salt. Photo: Courtesy of Salt

Salt. Photo: Courtesy of Salt

Discussions around sustainability and queerness are slowly growing in the fashion industry, but not many mainstream brands are considering both issues when producing collections and products. However, a new group of emerging brands are tackling these matters at the same time, taking a more holistic view of fashion design by creating garments that are not only better for the planet, but challenging the gender binary.

Here, we highlight three labels to watch that are addressing the barriers of the industry since the day they launched.

Willie Norris Workshop

Willie Norris Workshop. Photo: Courtesy of Willie Norris Workshop

Willie Norris Workshop. Photo: Courtesy of Willie Norris Workshop

“The message I wanted to convey [through clothing] was too urgent not to start,” says New York-based designer Willie Norris, who launched his brand via a Kickstarter campaign at the end of April with a series of T-shirts that say “Promote Homosexuality.” The brand was 142% funded upon the end of its campaign in May, which will help go towards the inaugural Willie Norris Workshop runway show at La Mama Galleria in New York, taking place on June 13.

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Currently the menswear design director at Outlier, Norris has previously worked for Zero + Maria Cornejo and Isaac Mizrahi. Desiring to create a fashion brand that is holistically and intentionally queer — not just queer by association — the creative believes, “It is one thing to have a queer person as the face of a brand or as a brand ambassador. It is another thing entirely to have a payroll full of diverse queer people working on a brand at every possible level.”

Accordingly, Willie Norris Workshop offers queer clothes for queer bodies by a queer designer who has founded his business on the idea that queer entrepreneurship is a means of defense. “Supporting queer people and causes through this business, whether that is via employment, sponsorship or simply making clothes and content that make people feel seen, is the most important thing to me,” says Norris.

When it came to launching his brand, Norris did not want to design with a specific gender in mind but instead approaches his practice with a queer sensibility. Though this concept can be challenging for the fashion industry, whose main source of categorization is broken down into “men’s” and “women’s,” Norris says his brand message is current because it answers the question of what queer fashion can look like: “The answer to this often has very little to do with gender.”

Beyond this, sustainability plays a key factor in his brand ethos as all of the T-shirts are either printed on repurposed tees or made to order on responsibly-produced blank tees, which significantly cuts back on overstock. The collection premiering in June will be made entirely from deadstock fabric, re-purposed garments or a combination of the two while all of the production will be done in factories that Norris has long-standing relationships with the city’s Garment District.

Purposely organizing the runway show in the middle of NYC Pride Month − an occasion in which many corporations have been capitalizing on or tokenizing queerness in recent years − Norris says, “I want to use this event as a way to show how to truly lift queer people up through business.”

Salt

Salt. Photo: Courtesy of Salt

Salt. Photo: Courtesy of Salt

Auston Bjorkman and Jessie Levandov, partners and co-founders of Salt, make versatile, comfortable and elegant clothing for all genders and bodies using ethical and sustainable practices and materials. The Brooklyn-based emerging fashion brand, which launched out of the duo’s living room, is inspired by the rugged simplicity of workwear and the delicate craftsmanship of handmade textiles.

Coming from distinct creative backgrounds — Levandov is a filmmaker and a jewelry and textile artist while Bjorkman is a high-end streetwear designer — Salt is a combination of Bjorkman’s masterful tailoring with Levandov’s penchant for organic, sculptural and mixed-media textiles. After showing at the Dapper Q runway show during New York Fashion Week at the Brooklyn Museum in 2017, they decided to design a full line together.

Salt’s range is comprised of jumpsuits, bomber jackets with utility pockets, overalls and more made entirely by designers and artisans in New York City, specifically a South Brooklyn-based, WOC-owned factory that Bjorkman has worked with for years through his tenure at Sir New York. Going one step further, Levandov and Bjorkman prioritize connecting directly with its audience in ways that reflect, lift up and serve the diverse LGBTQ community they belong to through Salt’s pop-up shops and runway shows, as well as working with models and artists who identify as queer, trans and gender non-conforming.

“In this era of mass production, people have lost a sense of connection to how the things we use and wear are made, and to the artisans who make them,” says Bjorkman and Levandov. According to the designers, as the industry tends to rely on wasteful, toxic production systems and exploitative labor practices, they are attempting to do things in ways that disrupt outdated modes of production — by producing locally in New York, working with small female-owned manufacturing businesses and creating small runs or products direct for consumers.

Hecha/做

Hecha/做. Photo: Daryl Oh/Courtesy of Hecha/做

Hecha/做. Photo: Daryl Oh/Courtesy of Hecha/做

With such a fast fashion cycle these days, trends appear and disappear as soon as they surface, making it harder and harder for garments to have lasting meaning. In reaction to this, clothing brand Hecha/做 aims to inject context and value back into apparel by approaching things with empathy and recognizing that everything and everyone has value.

Co-founders Ting and Luz operate with attention to ethical and environmental sustainability while collaborating with peers to provide greater visibility for their communities. Together, they create “gender-flexible,” painted utilitarian garments, such as an oversized denim-style jacket, a short wrap skirt and overalls. The duo take time to release their designs slowly while also partnering with other artists and creatives. In this way, they hope to create conversational platforms for human connection, collaboration and communal support through Hecha/做.

In fact, the brand’s name is a literal representation of its founders and ties to their cultural backgrounds and origin: Hecha is the feminine form of “made” or “created” in Spanish, while 做 is the Chinese character of “to make” or “to produce.” Brought together by a shared interest in dance music, Ting and Luz first met in 2015 at a rave. “It was in these environments that we began to discuss our desires to create garments that would match our personal needs and lifestyles,” says Ting. “We knew that these pieces needed to be adaptable to different situations for utility and convenience, focusing on the importance of being able to go from an office space to a warehouse, from day into night.”

The designers agreed early on that they didn’t want to feed into the broken fashion system and that Hecha/做’s function would be one of ideological reverse engineering, focused on transparency and the restandardization of industry norms. “Given the lack of a consistent definition of sustainability, we’ve taken a more macro-view and consider all aspects along the production chain in order to define our practices,” says Luz. 

For example, using a hemp-based composite, which is gentle on the earth and returns 60 to 70% of nutrients back to the soil, Hecha/做’s fabric requires four times less water than cotton. A recycled polyester fabric that Ting and Luz use also reduces environmental pollution, cutting back on fossil fuel and energy consumption, as well as decreasing carbon dioxide emissions. The ink that’s used to paint and screen-print the fabric is a water-based, non-toxic formula.

Another consideration is the ways most brands rely on gender-based categorization or use under the catchall term “unisex,” which often ends up being menswear silhouettes or over-sized garments to attempt a neutral aesthetic. “Because we feel that the idea of neutrality is subjective and ultimately indefinable, we are more interested in offering an opportunity for flexibility by creating garments that allow for adaptability and choosing not to label them as part of a specific category,” says Ting. 

Adds Luz, “We believe the wearer should be able to bring their own idea of gender and how they want to represent themselves in the way they style our garments.” Out of this, they’ve incorporated adjustable straps, ties, extra panels and multiple buttons to areas of the garments where there is the most variation in body size or shape as a way to increase inclusivity, adaptability and encourage customization. 

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